Wan Chai was the seedy bar-ridden area of Hong Kong on the
Island. It was where both British and American sailors would go out drinking at
night and where they would all too often get into drunken fights. It was also a
forbidden fruit in the sense that I was expressly forbidden from going there at
night by my parents over concerns that it was too dangerous. In reality it
wasn’t really that bad. It looked more or less like a street you would picture
in downtown Hong Kong: wide, garbage on the streets, crowded and with a
plethora of large, multicoloured neon signs piercing the dark of the night, with
animated Chinese characters. There was
this main street in Wan Chai whose name escapes me now, but it looked just like
I have just described, but in addition it was punctuated by above ground and
below ground bars and nightclubs. Many of these had crowds spilling out onto
the streets.
The legal drinking age in Hong Kong at that time was 18,
just like in the UK. In addition, every person in Hong Kong above a very young
age was required to carry photo ID on them at all times in case any police
approached them to enquire about their legal status. You see, Hong Kong at that
time was a very popular destination for refugees, given the political situation
in China and other Southeast Asian countries in the 1980’s. This coupled, with
the fact that it had a legendary reputation as the place to make it big, even
though this was often far from the reality for many who settled there. Hong
Kong simply didn’t have the space to accommodate all these people, so they
needed to come up with a system to make sure that only those who were approved
to live there actually got to stay.
That being said, getting into bars there was not very
difficult for us as 14, 15 and 16 year olds. Sure the bouncers would tell you
that you were too young and you couldn’t be there, but then would make no
attempt to prevent you from coming in as you walked right past them. Ex-pat
teenagers with nothing better to do on a Friday or Saturday night and plenty of
disposable income given to them by their guilt-ridden parents were simply too
good a revenue source for most bar and club owners to pass up. Indeed many of
these places would entice teens with their infamous “beer Buffet” nights, where
$25 HK, which at the time was about $5 CDN would buy you all the beer you could
drink. Needless to say, the police would conduct regular raids to flush out the
underage teens. But soon after these places would be back up and running and
serving teens once again.
In my last year before I left the colony to return to
Canada, I went to school at the Canadian Overseas Secondary School (COSS). On a
social level it was the best time of the three years that I spent in Hong Kong.
The reason was that my classmates were predominantly all local Chinese or
Indian students who were there to get the highest GPA’s that they could in
Canadian recognized courses, so that they would be able to go to Canadian
universities. I managed to make quite a few friends there, none of which I kept
in touch with unfortunately once I came back to Canada. Two of those friends were Suhail and
Gianluca. Suhail was a tall man from Pakistan, who had a reputation as a
womanizer, but was actually a very nice guy when you got to know him. It was
Suhail that introduced me to the amazing flavour of Chai tea, which he would
always have served to him at his place with copious amounts of milk and sugar.
He was at least 6 feet tall when we were 16 and looked like a fully grown man.
Gianluca was also a very tall Italian guy who only spoke broken English, but
enough so that we could understand each other.
One Saturday night, I was invited to Suhail’s place for a
sleepover. Gianluca was to join us. Suhail lived over on the Island, while we
lived in the New Territories, which was near the border with Mainland China.
Mom and dad had no issues with me going over, provided that I gave them
Suhail’s phone number and address, which I did. By now I had figured out that
even though my parents could call the number I gave them, they never had up
until now and so it was highly unlikely that they would.
I arrived at Suhail’s around dinner time after my usual
Saturday routine of buying stamps, playing video games and eating out, and his
mother served us a lovely vegetarian dinner with the usual Chai tea
afterwards. Unlike westerners like
myself who were accustomed to eating at a dining table, Suhail and my other
Indian friends usually sat on the floor to eat. It took some getting used to,
but I actually came to enjoy it quite a bit. After dinner we decided that we
would go out – to Wan Chai! Suhail said he could easily get us into any club we
wanted. We even talked of going to hit on girls. Who knew where the night might
take us? I was aware of the fact that I would be breaking my father’s rule if I
went, but I really wanted to go and decided to take the chance. So around 10pm,
we ventured out. We went into and out of a lot of different bars as we made our
way down the main road. Then we came to a street corner that had a large
underground club right at the street corner. There were large red neon signs at
street level that enticed us to make our way onto the steps that lead to the
club below. So after much discussion at the street corner, we decided to give
this place a try.
We descended the concrete steps past a few expats, dressed
in the popular 80’s garb of white slacks, button down monotone shirts festooned
with slender 1 inch pointed, dark coloured neckties. I think at the time one of
the most popular combinations was white pants, pink shirt and black tie.
Anyway, we get to these large, heavy wooden double doors and open them to find
no bouncers! We look in and see a hazy,
smoke filled room, spilling over with the sounds of dozens of conversations
coming from what must have been at least 20 different tables, all packed with
young men drinking. The tables were large wooden rectangular tables that looked
like they sat about six or seven guys on each side. As we made our way cautiously past the first
two tables – one each to our left and right, a large group of American sailors
sitting at the third table to our left called out to us and motioned us over.
After eagerly introducing themselves as American sailors, they asked us if we
wanted to join them at their table. We agreed and sat down. I was at the end of
the table and looking right at me was a guy who looked like Sid Vicious of the
Sex Pistols. He was dressed from head to toe in studded leather, sported a
Mohawk and had several piercings in his face.
He looked right at me and a wide grin escaped his face as he held up his
hand to shake mine. “I’m Ronnie! I’m going to be the next President of the
United States.”. I laughed out loud at the absurdity of what he just said. “No,
I’m serious!” He said, his smile gradually disappearing and being replaced by a
serious look that could easily be interpreted as the look of someone who was
about to take offense.
To understand why I had laughed, you have to understand that
Ronald Reagan was the President at the time Ronnie uttered those words. That,
and the fact that this guy basically looked like a punk rocker and not the
clean cut, immaculately uniformed guy from “An Officer and a Gentleman” that we
all imagine when we think of an American sailor. Oh No! I thought. I’ve just
offended this guy. I hope this doesn’t start a fight. As I think this I imagine
the ensuing bar room brawl, just like you see on the movies, with bottles being
broken on people’s heads and chairs being smashed on people’s backs. I am
looking right at Ronnie’s now serious expression as I imagine this. Within a
few seconds, his serious look turns to a smile again as he says. “I’m only
kidding man! Do you really think anyone
would vote for me?”. Then, over what
seemed like pint after pint of beer, Ronnie proceeded to
regale me with tales of his exploits as a sailor. I was fascinated as I listened
to him tell me about the places where he served, which among other places
included the Philippines, South Korea and Hong Kong, where he was now.
After he was done the guys at the table asked
us what we were doing out in the bars given how young we were. We told them
about what it was like to live in Hong Kong, and how there wasn’t much to do
there except go out and drink. The guys
were quite sympathetic, saying that they enjoyed visiting but didn’t think they
could handle this place as teens. Pretty soon the conversation turned to what
we were doing later on and were we planning on picking up any girls. I’m not
sure what Suhail said, but I know he would have quite confidently told them
about his prowess with the women. Gianluca just sat there smiling and chiming
in occasionally when his broken English would permit. I got ready to try and fake a confident
response, but Ronnie picked up on my lack of confidence and reached across the
table and grabbed me by the shoulders and shook me as he exclaimed “We’ve got
to get this boy laid!”. Yeahhh sure thing, I thought. Little did they know...
As much fun as we were having, we eventually decided that it
would be best for us to go, as the guys were getting very drunk now and we did
not want to find ourselves in the middle of any fights. So we thanked them for
their friendliness and for the drinks they bought us and got up to leave. We
would visit one other bar before we all
got tired and just decided to go back to Suhail’s to crash. It was one experience that changed my
perception of the sailors from a bunch of aggressive rowdy men to fun guys who
were also friendly to a group of teens who they knew were not supposed to be
where they were. Ronnie never did make
president, but every now and then I have found myself wondering what became of
him.
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